Brass Jungle Arboreals

*Green Tree or Chondro* Python (Morelia Viridis)**
Caging Requirements:
Size:	The Chondro's enclosure must be moderately roomy, able to hold humidity, allow for a thermal gradient, (and by all means be visually pleasing). Our larger females are kept in 24H"x35"W, adult males in 24" cube cages, and 20"x24"H caging for our young adults. Yearlings are housed in 9" tubs in rack systems. These measurements are flexible but should not be much smaller than these dimensions.
Temp. Requirements:	Each cage has two perches, one high, one low, and their heat source is set off to the back, side corner to allow for a gradient. It is important to have a horizontal gradient. Chondros will most often use the highest perch so temperature regulating is done from side to side movements away from or towards the heat source. For the heating source we use Pro Product heat panels (either 30 or 40 watt depending on cage size) with a proportional thermostat. We keep their direct basking site at approximately 85°F but can reach close to 90°F (providing that the gradient is large enough) while the coolest point is kept at about the 76°F - 78°F, allowing the snakes to perch where they feel most comfortable. Yearlings and babies are usually kept in a Rubbermaid type rack system, heated by heat tape used with a *proportional* thermostat (Spyder Robotics, Helix, or Big Apple).
Humidity:	The Green Tree Python comes from Indonesia, New Guinea and Australia and are adapted to a relatively high level of humidity, above 70%. They need to be misted on a daily basis, for two main reasons. Misting will increase the humidity in the cage throughout the day, but allowing it to drop by nightfall when temps naturally fall slightly. Misting also allows the animal daily access to fresh water. Most will, but some Chondros will not always search out their water bowl readily, instead they often drink the water that collects in drops on their scales. A nice sized water bowl will also help add to the overall humidity in the enclosure.
Substrate and Perches:	For matters of cleanliness we use layered paper towels as our method of substrate. They hold humidity well and clean up easily, making it easy to fully disinfect our cages. In a few of our display tanks we still use cypress mulch. Mulch is actually superior for holding humidity and is much more visually pleasing; however it is much more difficult to keep sanitary so we have limited our use of it. (Mulch can also be accidentally ingested when the animal is feeding. If you do use mulch, be sure to lay paper towels or equivalent down under the animal when feeding.) For perches we predominately use well sanded PVC poles (relative to the size of the animal's girth) and Habitat Systems fiberglass branches. This also allows for maximum cleanliness.
Husbandry
Cleaning:	Keeping the cage clean is extremely important. Every time your animal defecates, the cage should be fully cleaned out as soon as possible with a disinfectant. Wiping off the perches and siding is also always a good idea (mold can develope quickly in these high humidity habitats without proper ventilation). Also important is cleaning out the water bowl frequently. Water builds bacteria at a very fast rate so cleaning as often as possible is very important, every day being ideal, closer to once per week being more realistic for larger collections. These practices help keep the overall enclosure much cleaner and sanitary for your animal.
Precautionary fecals:	It is always a good idea to run precautionary fecals on your animal. This is done by taking fresh fecal samples to your vet and having it tested for any type of parasites that could possibly be lingering in even animals that you would never expect. It is uncommon that a captive born animal that has always been kept in the perfect conditions would ever have any type of problem, however if at any point an infected food item was given or especially if there are any wild caught animals present in your collection it could be possible. It is overkill to some, but we personally run a minimum of three consecutive fecals on any new animal that may come into our collection. It is necessary to run more than one because some parasites only shed eggs periodically, so the animal could test clean on one fecal and then turn up positive on the next. Some parasites are very stubborn, hard to kill, hard to remove and can easily re infect the animal if the enclosure is not fully cleaned out often. Many parasites can stay dormant, hatch, re infect the animal and do not have to be consumed orally. They can get in through the skin. Again when purchasing captive born, quality animals from a reputable breeder it GREATLY decreases the odds of this ever being a concern, especially when cleaning is kept at high standards. So overall, this is just a good precautionary thing to do that hopefully will do nothing more than ease the mind of any concerns, and if anything does pop up it can be treated and overcome so that your animal can remain healthy and strive in a parasite free environment.
Feeding Requirements:
Size:	The size of prey being offered to a Chondro should be about the size of their girth. A small food lump is allowable; however, it should be barely noticeable.
Frequency:	Babies usually start out eating apx. every 5-7 days depending on defecation, and then gradually increase time between meals as they grow into adulthood. Sub adults usually ranging between 7-10 days. Once the animal has reached adulthood and is no longer growing, frequency is dropped. Our adults eat about every 10-21 days depending on the size of the last meal and frequency of defecation. It is best not to feed more than three to four meals consecutively without defecation. (If a particular animal is lethargic or non active, it may be a good idea to gently handle and/or soak the animals tail in warm water at that point to help induce a movement). Don't get impatient; you will only do your animal harm. These animals have a slow metabolic rate.