Brass Jungle Arboreals

Emerald Tree Boa (Corallus Caninus)
Caging Requirements:
Size:	The Emerald's enclosure must be moderately roomy, able to hold humidity, allow for a thermal gradient, (and by all means be visually pleasing). Our larger females are kept in 24H"x35"W, adult males in 24" cube cages, and 20"x24"H caging for our young adults. Yearlings are housed in 9" tubs in rack systems. These measurements are flexible but should not be much smaller than these dimensions.
Temp. Requirements:	Each cage has two perches, one high, one low, and their heat source is set off to the back corner to allow for a gradient. For the heating source we use Pro Product heat panels (either 30 or 40 watt depending on cage size) with a proportional thermostat. We provide a basking site of approximately 85-88°F (providing that the gradient is large enough) while the coolest point is kept at about 76-78°F, allowing the snakes to perch where they feel most comfortable. Always provide a horizontal gradient so that thermal regulation can be done from side to side movements towards and away from the heat source. Emeralds will use their lower perch, but most often prefer the highest location so side to side adjustments are most often used. Yearlings and babies are usually kept in a Rubbermaid rack system, heated by heat tape used with a *proportional* thermostat (Spyder Robotics, Helix, or Big Apple).
Humidity:	The Emerald Tree Boa comes from the rainforests of South America, therefore requiring a relatively high level of humidity, above 70%. They need to be misted on a daily basis, for two reasons. Misting the animal and the enclosure will increase the humidity in the cage, but allow it to drop by nightfall, when temps naturally fall slightly. Misting also allows the animal daily access to fresh water in addition to their water bowl. Some will drink the water off of their body that collects in drops on their scales. A nice sized water bowl will also help add to the overall humidity in the enclosure.
Substrate and Perches:	For matters of cleanliness we use layered paper towels as our method of substrate. They hold humidity well and clean up easily, making it easy to fully disinfect our cages. In a few of our display tanks we still use cypress mulch. Mulch is actually superior for holding humidity and is much more visually pleasing; however it is much more difficult to keep sanitary so we have limited our use of it. (Mulch can also be accidentally ingested when the animal is feeding. If you do use mulch be sure to lay paper towels or equivalent down under the animal when feeding.) For perches we predominately use well sanded PVC poles (relative to the size of the animal's girth) and Habitat Systems fiberglass branches. This also allows for maximum cleanliness.
Husbandry
Cleaning:	Keeping the cage clean is extremely important. Every time your animal defecates, the cage should be cleaned out as soon as possible with a disinfectant. Wiping off the perches and siding is also always a good idea (mold can develope quickly in these high humidity habitats without proper ventilation). Also important is cleaning out the water bowl frequently. Water builds bacteria at a very fast rate so cleaning as often as possible is very important, every day being ideal, closer to once per week being more realistic for larger collections. These practices help keep the overall enclosure much cleaner and sanitary for your animal.
Precautionary fecals:	It is always a good idea to run precautionary fecals on your animal. This is done by taking fresh fecal samples to your vet and having it tested for any type of parasites that could possibly be lingering in even animals that you would never expect. It is uncommon that a captive born animal that has always been kept in the perfect conditions would ever have any type of problem, however if at any point an infected food item was given or especially if there are any wild caught animals present in your collection, it could be possible. It is overkill to some, but we personally run a minimum of three consecutive fecals on any new animal that may come into our collection even if it came from another well known breeder, just as a precaution. It is necessary to run more than one because some parasites only shed eggs periodically, so the animal could test clean on one fecal and then turn up positive on the next. Some parasites are very stubborn, hard to kill, hard to remove and can easily re infect the animal if the enclosure is not fully cleaned out often. Many parasites can stay dormant, hatch, re infect the animal and do not have to be consumed orally. They can get in through the skin. Again when purchasing captive born, quality animals from a reputable breeder it GREATLY decreases the odds of this ever being a concern, especially when cleaning is kept at high standards. However, even the cleanest animal that takes in a prey item that is carrying eggs of a particular parasite could still infest the animal. So overall, this is just a good precautionary thing to do that hopefully will do nothing more than ease the mind of any concerns, and if anything does pop up it can be treated and overcome so that your animal can remain healthy and strive in a parasite free environment.
Feeding Requirements:
Size:	The size of prey being offered to an Emerald is of utmost importance. A good rule of thumb is to never be able to see the food item in their bodies.
Frequency:	Babies start out eating every 7-10 days, and then gradually increase time between meals as they grow into adulthood. Sub adults eating about every 10-12 days. Our Adult females eat about every 14-21 days, and our adult males eat every 21+ days. Don't get impatient; you will only do your animal harm. These animals are extremely sensitive to overfeeding and serious health problems can and will occur if the safety guidelines are not followed. These are an animal only for those whom enjoy their beauty and can appreciate their delicate, slow metabolism and can be patient when feeding is involved.
Regurgitation:	An Emerald's digestive tract is extremely particular, and any husbandry error could prove to be a grave mistake. Prolonged exposure to improper husbandry (temperature, humidity and especially feeding size and frequency), may cause the onset of regurgitation. If an animal has had this occur due to a husbandry mistake, the solution is to not feed the animal for several weeks and then carefully give a SMALL food item and gradually work back to a proper sized food item and correcting any improper husbandry. There are other sources of this syndrome that occur when some animals are imported from the wild and are incurable to date. Parasites can also be a major cause of this problem. The best solution for this is simply to purchase healthy, quality captive born animals from reputable breeders.